******The MOST important tip I am going to give you
is the most crucial in my opinion. After your training
with me, you need to go back home and get to practicing! You are going to start lashing all your
clients with volume without charging them anymore money and you are going to just fill in with volume
so you get to practice almost daily. Get yourself feeling comfortable, more confident and get your
speed up so that when you are ready to increase your prices, you feel deserving of it. Take about 3
months of doing their lashes with volume and I can Guarantee that when you give them the choice of
going back to classic vs. staying with volume, you will see for yourself. You can also explain to them
that with Classic you need to get a fill every 2 weeks at $75, but with Volume you only need to come
once a month or every 3 - 4 weeks for $115/$125, so they wind up saving money and their lashes feel
softer look more natural but super full of awesome luchious lashes.
The Lash Fill
We already discussed a couple ways of picking up multiple lash- es and creating a “fan”. Learning the best way to control the tension on your tweezers is perhaps one of the most essential techniques for this technique. After practicing on our hands in class, we will also lash on live models. There are 3 ways to multi-lash place. They are capping, stacking, and wishboning.
Capping is adding extensions that are longer or shorter than the original extension. You can apply the longer extensions from un- derneath and the shorter extensions on top of the natural lash. You can do this by one lash at a time or you can do 2 of the same (longer) + 2 of the same (shorter) This will also come in handy when doing lash fills as trying to keep as many lashes as possible and just cap on a few .07 and just keep in mind how many already are on the lash to determine the length and how many you will use. Always use less and shorter then already on the lash.
Stacking is adding extensions that are usually the same length to the original extension. Strong natural lashes can place up to 6 extensions. When you dip the lashes in the adhesive, this creates a magnet that will help with keeping all the extensions together. If you have 3 .07 11mm C curl you can stack on another 3.07 same length and curl or if you want to get a little creative you can even change the curl to D or change the length and go a little shorter 9 - 10mm to create a fuller lash line.
Wishboning or graduated placement mean you need to stagger the bases of the extensions to avoid creating stickys. This tech- nique is very good in helping avoid T bars in the lash line. (T- bars are when the lashes don’t seamlessly blend into the natural lash line.)
is still safe. You can get very creative with Volume lashing as real- ly you are the Artist and have complete control.
There are many variations from 2D-6D volume lashing. 2D vol- ume effect for 2 D stacking can also be called doubling up. This is when you pick up 2 of the same extensions of the same length at the same time. 3D stacking is the same for 3 lashes at same time. 3D capping can be done with 1 .12 mm base with 2 .10mm lashes on top. Different variations create different looks. You can also create alternative 4 D looks by applying and individual .12 lash extensions and stack 3 .07’s on top.
You can even create a great look for a 6D wishbone by picking up 3 .07’s and place on lash, then pick up 3 more .07’s and place further above on the natural lash. You can pretty much do what you want as long as again we look at the natural lash we are ap- plying to so that it isn't too heavy or thick.
Your client will determine how often you will need to provide main- tenance on their lashes. Some clients with volume lashes will be able to go 3, 4 or even 5 weeks in between fill appointments. All different factors can contribute to how long their lashes will last. Possibilities include but not limiting are the way the client takes care of them, the way they may sleep, how much makeup they wear and the products they use, exposure to heat and water, and other fac- tors as well. When the client comes in for their fill, discuss with them whether they are happy with the length and the design. You may need to make some changes to satisfy their needs. You may need to perform a balance and maintain fill, a volume building fill, a style change fill or and increase length fill.
After client washes thoroughly with a good cleanser, prep them for the application. Make sure your lashing area is clean and supplies are also clean, disinfected and sanitized. Sanitation is a NECESSITATE! You do not want to cause any infections or cross contaminant.
Place the eye pads on your client securing the lower lashes.
Make sure the client is able to close their eye comfortably. I will show you various ways to use the tape to stretch and maneuver the eyelid to make lashing more effective. You should also keep logs of what you regularly use for your client, and what size lashes and kind of adhesive works best for them. This will save time in pre- paring for their appointment. Have your lashes ready to use on your ring or a card, depending on how you are most comfortable.
During the fill, any lashes that are not secure at the base should be removed. Also, any extensions that may have tilted due to natural lash regrowth can also be removed or capped if possible. Brushing all the lashes thoroughly with a disposal mascara wand will help loosen the lashes that need to shed. Separate lashes with tweezers to evaluate the lashes and then brush again. Clean the entire eye area including the lower lashes, corners of the eye, upper lashes and eyelid. It is sometimes necessary to clean the lashes again for your client depending on what you see. I often use a makeup brush and flock tip applicators. You can then use primer to clean off the natural oils. When all lashes are clean and dry you can continue to fill your client using the techniques you learned. Use a handheld nebulizer if you have one. (You can also have a humidifier in the room to help control humidity.) The handheld nebulizer will cure your adhesive and speeds up the dry time. No more waiting 24 hours to get them wet! When finished, just make sure both eyes look even and check for any lashes that can be stuck. You can take a curved tweezer and run horizontal thru to make sure your bonds are solid and that you don't have any stickies. If any lashes are stuck when the client is finished, you can work them out using tweezers, or scissors to gently unstick. Remove the medical tape and eye pads slowly. If necessary use a wet flock tip to loosen tape and hold the skin tight so you are not hurting the client and won't tear the delicate skin. I like to give my clients either a disposable mascara wand to take home or even a makeup brush for cleaning.